1914 Afternoon Dress
By Jennie Chancey
This is my 1914 Afternoon Dress, which was inspired by an original design in a 1914 home economics textbook (see the next-to-last image in the slideshow). It is a wonderful pattern for everything from everyday linen dresses to ethereal, filmy teagowns!
- Sizes 6-26 “DD” all included in one envelope.
- Several sleeve styles included (set-in or puffed; wrist- or elbow-length; cuffs or plain).
- Pattern includes instructions for lace insertion, and appendix includes traceable embroidery designs.
- You can also use the pattern to create a simple shift-style underdress. All instructions included!
- Special bodice option just for nursing moms with a secret front nursing panel.
- Photo Instructions online (coming soon in PDF format).
- Click to download the 1914 Afternoon Dress Pattern yardage chart.
- Available for instant download as an ePattern in PDF format!
- I also offer an online class if you’d like step-by-step instructions and help for creating your own gown!
Important Note: Because this pattern was drafted from an original 1914 design, it is created to be worn over a corseted form. If you do not wear a corset with the dress, I recommend cutting your bodice two sizes larger than what your bustline measurement calls for; that will give you the needed modern “ease” to wear the dress comfortably without a corset!
Note: If you purchased a copy of this pattern prior to 2003, click HERE for corrections/revisions.
annie
November 29, 2010 at 8:40 pm (909 days ago)I love how this can be easily modified to enable nursing. Would it be possible to modify it to meet maternity needs? Thanks!
Jennie Chancey
November 29, 2010 at 11:04 pm (908 days ago)Hi, Annie! You can modify this for maternity by raising the waistline about two inches. If you want to wear it all nine months, I’d also widen the skirt to accommodate more gathers. That’s it!
Kella
June 21, 2011 at 5:40 pm (705 days ago)Is there a corset pattern you would recommend to wear with this dress? I really love it! Thanks.
Jennie Chancey
June 25, 2011 at 5:33 am (701 days ago)Hi, Kella! There used to be a proper columnar corset available, but I believe it has gone out of print. However, the “Two Victorian Corsets” pattern from Laughing Moon is excellent. It is long enough to go through the hips and gives the proper shape to the bust. Hope this helps!
Kella
June 27, 2011 at 7:03 pm (699 days ago)Hi, just another question!
If I didn’t wear a corset and and cut the bodice two sizes larger instead, like you suggested, when I wear the dress it will look fine, right? Not baggy or anything? 
Thank you!
Kella
June 27, 2011 at 7:06 pm (699 days ago)I’d rather not wear a corset, because I want to wear the dress to a dance (would it be suitable for that?, and it might get uncomfortable with corset.
Anyway,
Kella
Kella
June 27, 2011 at 7:07 pm (699 days ago)Wow, there are a lot of typos in my last comment.
Ha.
Jennie Chancey
June 28, 2011 at 1:41 pm (698 days ago)Hi again, Kella! You won’t look “baggy” without a corset; the front of the dress has that famous “pouff” look above the waistline, which is normal. What you’re doing is just adding enough room for the bustline sans corset (a period corset pushes in the bustline a bit for a slimmer look up top).
Gertrude95
August 16, 2011 at 11:47 pm (648 days ago)I just made this dress for my daughter’s thirteenth birthday. I made a mock version of the bodice first, out of muslin, to make sure it would fit properly. I didn’t know about adjusting for lack of a corset, but it turned out great. She loves the dress and she looks beautiful in it! I plan to make the childrens’ version for my other daughters in the near future! Thanks Jenny for fabulous patterns!
Gertrude95
August 18, 2011 at 10:26 am (647 days ago)Jennie, not Jenny. So sorry!
Jennie Chancey
August 18, 2011 at 2:01 pm (647 days ago)LOL! I’m very used to it, Gertrude! Thanks for the sweet comments!
Taylor
October 15, 2011 at 5:49 am (589 days ago)Hi Jennie,
im only 14 so the corset would probably ruin my growth (as much as i would love to wear a corset i cant)would i have to double the size or could i leave it at my size without the corset?
Jennie Chancey
October 17, 2011 at 7:53 am (587 days ago)Hi, Taylor! A properly fitted corset does not ruin growth or harm the wearer in any way, I can assure you! There are a lot of very silly corset myths out there that you can ignore. In fact, we have a dedicated thread on my message forum that explodes the myths about corsets.
But you don’t need a corset for this dress anyway. You do not need to double the size–just go up one size to give the needed room in the bust. Hope this helps!
Kelly
October 24, 2011 at 8:20 pm (580 days ago)Hello! Sorry to bother you in Kenya but I was wondering what the difference between the cap cuffed sleeves and the puffed cuffed sleeves was. Thank you! I just can’t wait to make this dress!
Jennie Chancey
October 25, 2011 at 2:48 am (579 days ago)Hi, Kelly! The puffed sleeves have gathers at the top and are bigger than the cap sleeves, which fall straight. Hope this helps!
Sarah
November 2, 2011 at 6:46 am (571 days ago)(Tries to put it delicately) In normal cup sizes I’m a EE-F, but if I wore a corset with this dress would that make me fit the DD size? (As I’ve figured out that reason I always have to make so many alterations to commercial patterns is because of the cup size.)
Jennie Chancey
November 3, 2011 at 2:01 am (570 days ago)Hi, Sarah! It depends on the corset type. If you wear a longline corset with a high mid-bust fit, that will reduce the cup size a bit. Best thing to do is to get or make the corset first, then retake your measurements. If you don’t want to go that route, all you need to do is add more length to the bodice front to accommodate your cup size.
I show how to do this in the online instructions for my Romantic Era Dress. The instructions are for DD but apply to any cup size — just plug in the right measurements. Hope this helps!
Calypso
November 23, 2011 at 9:04 pm (550 days ago)If I was to make a white dress for modern wear, would I need to wear something underneath it? Is there a way to line it? I’m a bit hesitant about buying the pattern just yet
Jennie Chancey
November 24, 2011 at 4:15 am (549 days ago)Hi there! Yes, you can certainly line the dress instead of binding the neckline. Just cut a second bodice of lining material and a second skirt, then line the dress with those. Skip the instructions for binding the neckline, as you will not need to do that if you fully line the bodice. Have fun!
Taylor
November 26, 2011 at 6:21 am (547 days ago)Hi Jennie,
out of “Two Victorian Corsets” pattern from Laughing Moon is the best for this pattern?
Kind Regards, Taylor.
Taylor
November 26, 2011 at 6:21 am (547 days ago)sorry which is the best out of those two for this pattern?
Jennie Chancey
November 27, 2011 at 3:11 pm (546 days ago)Hi, Taylor! Use the longer corset that goes down over the top of the hips. It works nicely!
Taylor
December 13, 2011 at 12:47 am (530 days ago)Thank you
rachel day
January 15, 2012 at 5:54 pm (497 days ago)hi i was wondering if it were possible to take a bit of length out of the skirt?
Jennie Chancey
January 16, 2012 at 3:48 am (496 days ago)Hi, Rachel! You can cut and hem the skirt to any length you want.
rachel day
January 16, 2012 at 9:04 pm (496 days ago)thank you.
one more thing is there a particular material to use?
i love the dress its beautiful.
Rachel
Jennie Chancey
January 17, 2012 at 1:21 pm (495 days ago)Hi, Rachel! Fabric choice depends on what look you’re aiming for. Dresses of this period were made from batiste, voile, organdy, and other “heirloom” materials, or you could make what was called a “wash” dress for everyday wear from washable materials like cotton and linen. Hope this helps!
rachel day
January 18, 2012 at 7:16 pm (494 days ago)Hi Jennie.
that is lodes of help.
looking foreword to making the dress.
thank you for all the help.
-rach
Calypso
February 14, 2012 at 8:15 pm (467 days ago)Do you know the finished garment measurements? That would be VERY helpful (:
Thank You!
Jennie Chancey
February 15, 2012 at 5:37 am (466 days ago)Hi, Calypso! The waistband is cut according to your exact measurements with room for the overlap (and half an inch of wiggle room). The skirt is gathered and fuller than the hip measurement by approximately six inches. The bustline depends on whether or not you wear a period corset. Without the corset (and cutting one size up as indicated), there is an inch of ease from armpit to armpit across the bust. As with all my patterns, I encourage customers to make a bodice toile and try it on to check the fit before cutting into fashion material, as no two bodies are identical. See “Why Doesn’t This Look Like the Pattern Cover?” in my Tips section for further assistance. Hope this helps!
Calypso
February 15, 2012 at 1:33 pm (466 days ago)Thank you!
I was also curious if it is nescesary to cut out the bodice one size up if you have a small waist. In your pattern sizes I am a 14, but my waist measures 26 inches. Would I still need a corset? Or should I cut the bodice one size up?
Jennie Chancey
February 15, 2012 at 1:35 pm (466 days ago)The corset actually smashes the bustline in rather than making the waist smaller. This was the era of “columnar” corsets for a straight posture (no more “S”-bends!). If you are narrow through the ribcage, you will not need to go up a size, but most ladies “B” cup and above need the extra room without a corset. Hope this helps!
Calypso
February 15, 2012 at 1:45 pm (466 days ago)Thank you! I’m eager to get started on the project, because my history class is covering this era. You’ve been a great help! (:
Lyric
February 17, 2012 at 1:22 pm (464 days ago)I am excited to have fond this versatile, modest dress. I’m a big girl [mod. size 16] but have decided to sport it anyway.
Thank you moderator for being a force on the WWW. Keep ‘em coming.
Lyric
February 22, 2012 at 3:48 pm (459 days ago)Hi Jennie:
Is this dress made with “voile” too like the romantic blouse? I am oh so ISO some affordable voile NOW! As soon as tax funds come in I will be here to order the two patterns.
Jennie Chancey
February 23, 2012 at 10:27 am (458 days ago)Hi, Lyric! Yes, that is voile. I’ve found it inexpensively online, but it’s harder to find in shops, because usually only heirloom sewing ships carry it. Hope you’re able to find it!
Sharon
April 4, 2012 at 4:44 pm (417 days ago)We are making the lined bodice. Is the back fold line supposed to be the seam line? This would make the seam allowance 1 1/4″. HELP!
Jennie Chancey
April 4, 2012 at 5:33 pm (417 days ago)Hi, Sharon! No, the seam allowance is 5/8″. The fold line is there for an UNLINED bodice. You can ignore it for the line bodice and just sew the regular seam allowance. Have fun! Warmly, Jennie
whitney
May 9, 2012 at 11:32 am (382 days ago)beautiful!!
common crafter
June 12, 2012 at 9:08 pm (348 days ago)Can this pattern be adapted to use a zipper, and if so, what size would I need?
Jennie Chancey
June 13, 2012 at 1:02 pm (347 days ago)Hello! Yes, you can put a 22″ zipper up the back without changing the cutting line.
Hope this helps!
common crafter
June 14, 2012 at 12:31 am (346 days ago)Thank you. ^_^
Lyri
June 19, 2012 at 4:47 pm (341 days ago)I’ stitching mine up now and have a question about the instructions on pages 13-14 under “Tips for Embellishing Your Gown”. I do not know how to do the “eyelets and scallops” shown there. I have Googled, consulted the S & S Forum. Still I’m stumped. I suppose I’d start with an awl?????
Any further guidance about those eyelet/scallop suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks Ms. Jenniee.
Jennie Chancey
June 20, 2012 at 3:08 am (340 days ago)Hi again! Yes, you make the holes for the eyelets with an awl, then you use a buttonhole stitch with embroidery floss to finish off the eyelet. For scallops, you use a satin stitch. There are a lot of embroidery instructions online that will take you through all the stitches step by step.
Lyric
June 23, 2012 at 1:30 pm (337 days ago)Thanks, Ms. Jennie. I am going to Google “satin stitch by hand” you see, I am using a Sears 1925 Hand Crank sewing machine. No “frilly” stitches going on over my house with the machine, LOL.
Also, I should have made my question more plain. I am not sure how to go about getting neat, symmetrical scallops on the edges of said fabric. I am a pattern baby for sure (no design skills here). If I attempt to freehand cut scallops on the edge of some fabric, girl pulleaaaaze . . . disaster in the making.
Jennie Chancey
June 23, 2012 at 3:47 pm (337 days ago)LOL! Now I get you. Actually, there are scallop-cutting “crank” machines available, believe it or not. They had them back in the day, and they are still available now. You might try Googling to see what you can find — or check eBay!
Lyric
June 26, 2012 at 1:01 pm (334 days ago)Good day:
Almost finished my first gown. Happy, happy, joy,joy. The armhole is a tad snugger than I prefer and am wondering for the next one (which will be on the table in the next two weeks) should I go up a size or do I have to get all into drafting (which scares the heck outta me)?
Thanks.
Jennie Chancey
June 26, 2012 at 2:00 pm (334 days ago)Hi, Lyric! Sounds like you’re doing well! Snug armholes do happen, particularly if you are a tad broad through the shoulders or have well-formed biceps.
I’ve got a tutorial at http://sensibility.com/blog/tips/why-doesnt-this-look-like-the-pattern-cover/. Scroll down to #5, which will guide you through modifying armholes. Have fun!
Lyric
June 27, 2012 at 10:31 am (333 days ago)Thanks, Chica! I’m on it! Oh, my Elegant Ladies Closet pattern arrived yesterday. WWoooooooooooooooo whoooooooooooo. BUT, I have to make my stays first,
so I am on the lookout for all necessary equipment.
Stay tuned for a photo of my dress (in all it’s ahem, glory).
Virginia
July 10, 2012 at 9:32 am (320 days ago)How hard is this pattern to put together? I put together the Regency Dress pattern with little difficulty some time ago. I have always like this pattern and I was wondering if I could get it together or not. I would say I fall in the range of advanced beginner or early intermediate sewer. I understand how patterns go together, I just don’t feel comfortable making a lot of alterations. Do you think I have the skill to get this together
Jennie Chancey
July 10, 2012 at 9:40 am (320 days ago)Hi, Virginia! Yes, you could definitely handle this dress if you put together the Regency Gown. This one only falls into the advanced category if you do all the lace-insertion and embroidery. Otherwise, it’s a pretty straightforward bodice with waistband and skirt. Have fun!
Catherine
September 3, 2012 at 3:43 pm (265 days ago)I’m a novice seamstress, but have fallen in love with the Downton Abbey era, and I’m really taken with this and the 1910 tea gown. Do you have any suggestions about how I might get enough up to speed to make these? Something (preferably with the same aesthetic) that I should try first?
Jennie Chancey
September 4, 2012 at 11:54 am (264 days ago)Hi, Catherine! Definitely start with this one (1914), as it’s the easiest. Then try your hand at the underslip from the same pattern before moving on to the 1910s Tea Gown. Hope this helps!
Calypso
October 9, 2012 at 3:44 pm (229 days ago)Hi! It’s me again. FINALLY started on the dress, but I’m wondering how to remove the “pouf” at the front of the gown to make it a bit more modern and flattering….
Jennie Chancey
October 10, 2012 at 8:04 am (228 days ago)Hello, Calypso! Just trim away the curve at the lower edge of the bodice front to get rid of the “pouf.” Have fun sewing!
Emilie
October 20, 2012 at 5:12 pm (218 days ago)Oh, my word! This is gorgeous! I’m not much of a sewer, though. Is there anywhere that you are selling them already made? Please email me.
Jennie Chancey
October 21, 2012 at 10:30 am (217 days ago)Hi, Emilie! I have a seamstress-in-residence who can make you one to measure. You can reach her through the form on her page.