Here are the underpinnings you need to give you the proper Regency foundation! This package includes patterns for a chemise, short stays, and two chemisettes. The chemise was modeled from original garments in several museum collections and features an adjustable drawstring neckline and gussets under the arms for a comfortable fit. The short stays lace in the front and were based upon extant stays in museum collections as well as period drawings of these transitional undergarments. The chemisettes were drawn from portraits of the time as well as Janet Arnold’s excellent research in Patterns of Fashion I. Begin with the chemise next to the skin, then add your stays for the correct silhouette. To create a smooth line beneath your gowns, add a long petticoat over your stays, which you can easily make from the Regency Gown pattern above (omitting the sleeves). For daytime, put a chemisette over your undergarments, then don your gown. Voila’! A full Regency wardrobe!
- Sizes 6-26D all included in one envelope.
- Illustrated instructions make construction easy!
- Notes on original undergarments of the time as well as tips for wearing the undergarments.
- Click to download the Regency Underthings yardage chart.
- Photo Instructions in the works. (Please feel free to email me for a zip file of photos until these are ready!)
- Also available for instant download as an ePattern in PDF format!
The stays are rated “intermediate,” but the chemise and chemisettes are simple enough for a beginner. I am always available through the Contact Form if you have questions! Do note that the short stays will not offer ample enough support for sizes above “DD” without serious modifications. I would instead recommend the excellent Regency Stays pattern by The Mantua Maker, which is for longer (hip-length) stays and can be easily modified to support larger cup sizes.
FITTING HELPS: Do not miss this excellent tutorial for help in fitting stays perfectly!
Note: If you purchased a copy of this pattern prior to April 2007, click HERE for corrections/revisions.
10:02 pm
What is a good place to purchase boning?
1:03 pm
Hi, Beatrice! I recommend CorsetMaking.com for steel boning, but it’s actually much cheaper (and even more authentic) to simply purchase flat wooden reeds at a craft store like Michaels or Hobby Lobby and cut them to the proper length. That way you get the perfect fit for every channel, whereas steel boning only comes in set lengths. Hope this helps!
3:54 pm
Beatrice, I used plastic cable ties for the short stays, because I wanted something washable. They worked very well.
7:22 pm
I’m trying to understand how this goes. I wear a chemise, then a short stay to hold up my bust, then a chemisette on top of the other two and then the dress? And purchasing this pattern will give me all the patterns I need to sew the chemise, stay and chemisette?
Sorry for all the questions but this is my first time making anything like this. I really like the “Pride and Prejudice” dress look and would love to know how to get the correct look.
Thank you for any help you can provide.
8:03 pm
Hi, Stefanie! Yes, the chemise is the first garment you put on. The stays go over that for bust support. The chemisette is optional. It’s an item that was mainly worn as neckline filler during the day–never for evenings unless you were an older chaperon and didn’t intend to “stand up” with a gentleman for a dance.
Hope this helps!
6:52 pm
Thank you so much! I’m on a tight budget so flat wood reads would be great,I would much rather spend more on fabric than on boning that nobody is going to see anyway, and the more authentic the better:D
5:43 am
I made one myself.
http://fairytalefrocks.blogspot.com/2011/01/finished.html
using plastic cable ties and pink bindings. yay. Now I need to make the chemise.
6:11 pm
Do you think a cotton canvas 260 g per square meter would work for the lining and interlining of the short stay?
12:37 am
Hi! No need to line with anything that heavy–just a regular muslin will work. But that will be great for the interlining!
7:41 am
Hi Jennie,
thanks for the quick answer. I’m glad I can use the canvas because I couldn’t find any coutil around here.
6:58 pm
Mrs. Chancey,
Will the stays from the Regency era pattern work underneath the ladies’ Georgian portrait dress or is it essential that I use the longer stays pattern from Mantua Maker? I was thinking since I will need the chemise from the Regency underthings pattern anyways, it would be nice if I could buy one pattern rather than two!
I am relishing your exquisitely gracious designs!
Thank you,
Lucy
7:00 pm
Mrs. Chancey,
Will the stays from the Regency era pattern work underneath the ladies’ Georgian portrait dress or is it essential that I use the longer stays pattern from Mantua Maker? I was thinking since I will need the chemise from the Regency underthings pattern anyways, it would be nice if I could buy one pattern rather than two!
I am relishing your exquisitely graceful designs!
Thank you,
Lucy
12:54 am
Hi, Lucy! Regency stays will create the wrong silhouette for the Georgian era. The Regency silhouette is a high, rounded “shelf” bustline, while the Georgian Era silhouette is pretty much flat all down the front.
Sorry you can’t make the Underthings pattern do double-duty here! So glad you’re enjoying my site!
7:04 pm
Thank you for getting back to me, Mrs. Chancey. I certainly want to have the right look, so I do appreciate your advice!
9:33 pm
Jennie,
What would a nursing mother have worn for support and easy access for her nursling under her gown? I’ve looked at several of the posts on modifying the Regency gown for nursing but I’m curious about what undergarments would work with both the gown and a nursing babe!
It seems it would be simple to add openings to the chemise for nursing but I’m not sure how the stays would work?
2:14 am
Hi, Kristin! Nursing moms wore long stays with gussets that opened or short stays that simply folded down for nursing access. I made my short stays soft (quilting instead of boning), and simply unlaced the top and folded down each side for nursing access. The chemise needs no openings; you just loosen the drawstring and lower the neckline for access. I successfully nursed twins with full Regency garb, so it can be done!
4:59 pm
Thank you Jennie! I think I will plan on quilting the short stays
9:07 am
Hi Jennie,
I have just followed your link to mantuamaker.com, but i can’t seam to find what you are talking about. The only stay/corset link there is a corset training course. I am an F cup so obviously need more than the regency short stays, can you help please?
thanks so much,
8:37 am
Hi, Shell! The direct link to the page with the Regency Stays is http://mantua-maker.com/id30.html. Thanks for letting me know the other link was wrong!
12:55 pm
Hi Mrs. Chancey!
I own the Simplicity version of the Regency underthings pattern, which I understand you designed. Will this one work as well as the one from your website? Or is this one more period?
I’m a college student on a tight budget, but want to do things correctly!
Thanks so much!
1:27 am
Hi, Victoria! The Simplicity version is the same as my original except that it runs a size too large. Definitely (as always) make a toile to check the fit of the stays before cutting out your “real” stays.
No worries on the chemise–it is meant to be large, so just go a size down from what you measure, and it will fit fine.
11:20 pm
What kind of changes would you make for a larger busted woman? I have issues with my lower back and cannot wear a full corset, but seeing the short stays, I may be able to adapt them for the larger bust (42 H). I am just wanting to know if you think it is possible, before I attempt that level of pattern adaptation. Thanks.
11:31 am
Hi, Colleen! I have a customer who adapted the stays for a G cup with great success. You can read about how she did it on my Message Forum at http://forums.sensibility.com/viewthread.php?tid=10607 (you just need to register for a free username in order to read the thread). Hope this helps!
10:31 am
Oh yay. I’m a 38H and her stays look great! I also have the Simplicity stays pattern.. but it’s the smaller version. Can I use basic pattern enlargement techniques to enlarge it to something more my size (I realize I will have to do more changes for that “H” cup size)? Or would that throw off the width..?
Thank you!
10:35 am
You can use the Simplicity pattern, but remember it runs a size larger than my version, so keep that in mind as you size it up. Just test every stage in muslin before cutting into your fashion material, and you’ll be set!
9:20 pm
Does this pattern still come with the standing collar chemisette variation? I didn’t see that it was mentioned. Thanks!
1:29 am
Hello, Kristina! Yes, there are instructions for the standing collar as well as the cutting lines. Those were only omitted from the Simplicity version of this pattern.
1:08 pm
Hi, Mrs. Chancey,
Just a quick question for now:
What happens if I make a Regency-era gown from your Elegant Lady’s Closet and do not wear the period underpinnings, but instead modern undergarments? I wanted to make a Regency gown for my piano recital and folk-dancing ball, so I’m not as concerned with being historically correct. Would I not get the look I’m going for if I don’t use these underpinnings?
Thanks!
8:52 am
Hello, Courtney! Because the bodice pieces are much shorter for the dresses in the Elegant Lady’s Closet, you will have to lengthen them to cover a normal bustline. Stays push you inward and create a bit of a “shelf” look, so cut out a muslin bodice and test it over your preferred undergarments to see how much length you need to add to the bodice pieces. I will warn you that the drawstring look is just not flattering over a modern bustline unless you are an “A” cup–larger sizes really look (ahem) “out there!” Have fun sewing!
1:33 pm
Thanks for the answer! I just purchased the Elegant Lady’s Closet, and so I plan to make my dress! I will definitely make the muslin bodice. My sewing teacher, my grandma, is an expert seamstress and so she and I should be able to get this done in time. And, I’m safe with the cup size.
Thanks again! I hope to buy more of your patterns in the future!
4:44 pm
I thought this was only corded- I would like to make one, (I never made a corset before) but I do not see from the images where the boning is located. Thank you.
12:24 am
Olga, it is difficult to see boning channels, as the thread is white on white. Suggested placement of boning is on either side of the center front opening (by the lacing holes), then diagonally on either side of the outer bust gussets toward the side seam and in the side seams themselves. I include diagrams for boning, cording, and quilting options in the pattern. Thanks!
7:55 pm
Thank you, Jennie. I am looking forward to attempting it!
6:13 pm
I just finished my first Regency Chemise from the Underthings Pattern and I am so thrilled!!! I want to make several more to really get it down, and then I’ll attempt the Regency gown pattern that I also purchased. This is a lot different than making the same pattern for little girls and for dolls. Love your patterns. I’m having so muc fun. Kathy
1:38 am
Oh, I’m so glad, Kathy! Send in pictures if you care to share your final outfits!
9:27 am
I have a VERY small bust… Practically nonexistent, in fact. How will this affect choosing a size for the stays?
2:40 pm
Hi, Pam! I have instructions for ladies who are “nearly A” in the pattern. You really do not need stays to get the proper silhouette if you are an “A” or nearly A, but the option is there if you prefer to have them.
10:42 am
I’d like to know…how comfortable are the stays to wear day in and day out? Do they compress your body very much, so as to cut off lymph drainage, or cause other circulatory problems? How do they compare to wearing a modern bra?
I ask because…..over the past 2-3 years I have developed an intolerance to wearing a traditional bra, they are very uncomfortable for me. I have gone to short cami’s, but they do not do a very good job of “supporting the tissue.” I am about a 38C size. So, I am looking for an alternative…
Also, do either the short stays or the long stays provide any sort of back or posture support?
Thanks for any advice!
11:45 am
Hello, Mrs. C.!
If you make the stays unboned (soft), they are as comfortable to wear as a sports bra. There is no “constriction” in a well-fitted set of stays–only bust support. The way the straps are designed also encourages upright posture, gently pulling the shoulders back, so this prevents slumping (but not uncomfortably). Long stays from this time period (which I do not offer but you can get from The Mantua Maker) do not compress the body–they just provide support for the bust. However, if you make long stays with a busk down the center front, they do provide more posture support than short stays.
Hope this helps!
12:50 pm
Yes, this info is a great help! I will definately try them! (Sewing machine in repair shop at present, hope to have it back soon!)
One more quick question—when you mentioned using “flat wooden reeds from Hobby Lobby” in a post above, are you referring to basket-making reed, or something different? I would like to try it but am not sure exactly what product you mean.
Thank you so very much!!!
3:57 am
Hi again! You don’t want highly flexible basket reed. I’m not sure what Hobby Lobby calls this stuff, but it’s in with all the balsa wood and other supplies for carving and woodwork. It comes in lengths around 18-24″ and is easy to cut but will snap if bent to a 90-degree angle. Hope that helps!
4:44 pm
Hi I’m looking for some place to purchase a short stay,or for someone to make one for me, since I no longer have a sewing machine.
2:06 pm
Hi, Crystal! For form-fitting undergarments, it is usually best to find someone locally who can make them, as that person will be able to fit the toile to you and make sure the stays are correct. However, if you are confident that you can provide accurate measurements, my Seamstress-in-Residence can make stays for you. I’d recommend that you request her to mail the fitting toile to you for a try-on, as that step really is crucial to having a correct set of stays. Hope this helps!
9:03 pm
Hi Mrs. Chancey,
I was originally looking for a Regency stay pattern to help keep my stomach from being noticeable with the empire waistline. Do you think it would be possible for me to edit the pattern to include a piece below the stay for that purpose?
Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you!
5:07 am
Hi, Rebecca! You really need full stays–longline stays that go over the tummy and hips. I recommend the Mantua Maker’s Regency Stays. Just be sure you make a toile for a try-on, as that pattern tends to run about a size too small. Hope this helps!
6:47 pm
Dear Jennie,
thank you for adding a link to my post on proper fit for Regency Stays! I’m so flattered!
Stephanie Johanesen
Founder, Oregon Regency Society.
2:27 pm
It’s simply fantastic, Stephanie! Best thing written on fitting stays that I’ve seen, and so thorough. Thanks for posting it!
10:00 pm
i’m very busty and i wanted to know if the flat wooden reeds would work for me or should i buy the bonning? and on booklet that came with the patterns has the website: http://www.granndagarb.com- to buy boning from but that isnt a website :/ thanks for the help
1:39 am
Hi, Mollie! Unfortunately, Grannd Garb has gone out of business. I’ve removed that notice from the latest edition of the instructions, so you must have gotten an earlier one. Sorry about that! Flat wooden reeds will work nicely on you. Just be sure you are getting a hard wood rather than balsa, and you’ll be set. They are much, much easier to use, since you can cut them to the correct length rather than having to special order the metal boning to the proper length. Have fun sewing!
2:54 pm
thank you!
2:57 am
Jeannie, all I could find at the fabric store today for the chemise was batiste (65% poly/35% cotton) or poplin (97% cotton/3% spandex). Which would you recommend be used? Thanks!
2:05 am
Hi, Nina! You need to look for muslin, which is 100% cotton. Wearing a poly blend close to the skin tends to make the wearer perspire more. I’ve never found a fabric store that didn’t carry bleached and unbleached muslin, but you may have to look in the linings section or quilting section. If you absolutely cannot find any (which would be very unusual!), go with whatever has the most cotton content and is lightweight and breathable. I hope this helps, and thanks for your patience in awaiting an answer. Our Internet was out for three days! Warmly, Jennie
5:44 pm
I was wondering if you could tell me the pattern number for Simplicity’s version of underthings? I’m debating which pattern to order (I’d love to order yours, but I’m on a budget.
Maybe someday), but I can’t find it on the Simplicity website.
2:02 am
Hi, Emily! The gown pattern is 4055 and is at http://www.simplicity.com/p-2088-costumes.aspx. The underthings pattern is 4052 but is no longer in print. I recommend checking eBay for that one. Hope this helps!
9:19 pm
Metal boning can be cut to fit, filed down, and coated in tool dip if you find yourself with lots of the wrong size of boning.
8:33 am
Yes, but I’ve found it pretty hard to cut and file without special tools, so that’s why I recommend reed boning instead. Metal does offer more support for larger cup sizes (and is harder to break), but I sure wish it was easier to work with for a custom fit!