I created this pattern by pulling research together from several sources (along with customer requests!). I studied a Spencer jacket in the D.A.R. Museum collection and one at the Valentine. I also drew from Janet Arnold’s wonderful Patterns of Fashion.
- Sizes 6-26DD all included in one envelope.
- Illustrated instructions make construction easy!
- Options for double-breasted or “frog” closure and two different collar treatments.
- Also makes up as a sleeveless pelisse or long coat with a skirt!
- Photo Instructions online (available soon in PDF format).
- Click to download the Regency Spencer-Pelisse yardage chart.
- Also available for instant download as an ePattern in PDF format!
This pattern is rated “intermediate,” but I have had beginners use it successfully with a minimum of help. And I am always available through the Contact Form if you have questions!
Note: If you purchased a copy of this pattern prior to 2004, click HERE for corrections.
7:44 am
Hello. I am getting married next September and have bought an empire-line wedding dress and have been looking for a jacket to go with it. Is it possible to modify the design so that it doesn’t fasten and is almost mixed with a bolero in it’s design?
8:24 am
Hello, Katherine!
You could certainly leave off the fastenings if you prefer, and there are already cutting lines for a non-overlapping front (which is similar to a modern bolero). I’d recommend experimenting with the cut of the front of the jacket in muslin prior to cutting into your fashion fabric to make sure you’ve got the look you want. Sounds like a fun project, and congrats on your upcoming wedding!
Warmly,
Jennie
12:22 am
Would cotton velvet be a suitable material for this period and garment?
12:28 am
Yes, indeed, Jenny! Just be sure it’s the soft, supple kind rather than the stiff kind. That will be lovely! Velvet Spencers weren’t terribly common, but I’ve seen them. There’s an amazing purple velvet one in the DAR collection, in fact. Have fun sewing!
1:37 pm
I am looking at make this (as a coat) for my self for this winter. Using a wool. Can you recommend one type of wool over another?
4:24 pm
Hi, Amber!
By far, my top recommendation is merino wool, which is soft, lightweight, yet very cozy for winter. You do have to be careful with it, as it can shrink. There is also a new merino blend called “smart wool” that doesn’t shrink and is just as soft, but it is very hard to find. I’ve used merino successfully for many projects and just use dry cleaning to prevent shrinkage. There are other types of wool that are suitable for coats, but they tend to be very itchy. Finally, there are suiting woolens that are too thin for a coat, so you’ll want to avoid those. Hope this helps!
9:48 am
How do you make an open-robe out of this pattern? I’ve been dying to know!
9:22 pm
Hi, McKenna! There is a gal on my forum who created an open robe and has step-by-step instructions I will be posting ASAP. If you’d like to go ahead and read them, visit my message forum and search for “open robe.”
8:52 pm
I would like to make this jacket out of the lightest weight possible fabric, for a September re-enactment in Florida. What is the lightest weight fabric you would recomend? Thank you. Lisa
9:23 pm
Hi, Lisa! I have actually seen an extant Spencer made of dotted Swiss! It is sheer and meant to go over a white dress. If you prefer not to deal with sheer material, I’d go for a pima cotton or a linen-cotton blend (unlined with facing instead). Hope this helps!
5:45 pm
I made this spencer 2 times, and both times it came out so fitted I think it’s too small. They fit like gloves. My younger sisters are very happy because they received the spencers. But I’m looking at the pictures and am wondering if it’s supposed to be fitted.
1:14 am
Hi, Gina! A Spencer jacket should be nicely fitted over top of whatever you’re wearing beneath. If you’ve got on full chemise, stays, petticoat, and gown, you’ll have a snugger fit than if you’re wearing the Spencer over a conventional bra and gown. But it should definitely be a good, close fit so that it doesn’t gape in front or hug the ribcage. Hope this helps!
7:39 pm
What does the pelisse look like in the back?
6:08 am
Hello! The back of a pelisse looks like the back of a Regency gown with the skirt gathered or pleated. If you pop over to my Show and Tell section, you can see several pelisses made by my customers from this pattern. Also see Lorna’s tutorial for creating a pelisse!
2:23 am
Thank you, Mrs. Chancey. Is it possible to make this with lace? I want a lace pelisse to wear over a dress that is too brightly colored to soften it.
2:35 am
Nevermind. I see the beautiful lace pelisse here:
http://sensibility.com/show-and-tell/andreas-regency-wedding-gown-with-pelisse/
5:08 am
Great! Glad you found that.
12:19 am
Hi; So glad to have found your site-I have read many good things about it all over the ‘net; I recently saw a long Pelisse made out of a better-quality polar fleece, as a way of modernizing it (worn with dress pants and jeans)-I would love to do something like this, but am not too keen on polar-fleece-any recommendations for a fabric with a little bit of stretch-would Merino be good? Thanks
1:45 am
What a neat idea, Dawn! I’d love to see that polar fleece pelisse. Sounds fun! Merino wool would be a wonderful option, as it is so soft and has a bit of give to it. You could also try a heavy plush felt (I can’t think of the correct name for it, but it’s found at craft and fabric stores). Have fun sewing, and share photos when you finish, as I’d love to see what you make!
7:22 pm
Hi!
I just purchased this pattern and I was wondering which size spencer jacket to make. I am exactly in between two sizes and was unsure of whether to go up or down. Which would you suggest? Thanks!
2:35 pm
Hi, Catherine! Always cut larger, since is is easier to subtract than to add. I always recommend making a muslin toile of the bodice to test the fit, so cut that out in the larger size, baste it together, and try it in over your dress with underpinnings to check the fit. Hope this helps!
11:10 am
Hi, I am in the process of making a spencer using your pattern, but I am a bit confused over seam allowances. Is it a 5/8″ seam except when you mention 3/8″ seam? or is it all meant to be made using a 3/8″ seam?
Thank you,
Issy
12:25 pm
Hi, Issy! Sorry for the confusion. The seam allowance is noted on the bottom of the yardage chart. It’s 5/8″ except where noted. So just use the 3/8″ seams where indicated on the pattern pieces. Thanks!
6:07 pm
Thank you.