A. Run gathering (or “ease”) stitches on tops and bottoms of sleeves. Gathering stitches should be no more than 3/8” away from the edge of the material.
B. To create the band, first measure around the flexed bicep of the child right above her elbow. To this measurement, add one inch for ease (comfort) and one inch for a 1/2” seam allowance. For instance, if the child’s flexed bicep measures six inches, you’ll add two inches, leaving enough room for the 1/2” seam allowance and an inch of “breathing room.” If you want to make a tight cuff (fitted to the bicep), I still recommend leaving at least 3/8” of room for movement. You can make the band from the dress material, but I prefer the method shown in the home ec. textbook from which the woman’s version of this pattern came. The band shown in the book is made of eyelet or embroidered netting/lace (and therefore doesn’t need a hem). To make a band like that, simply place your width guide on the edge of the eyelet or lace and cut the band to the proper length (8” in this example). Cut two bands by doubling the eyelet or lace. If you prefer a plain band out of regular material, you will double the width of the band, since you are going to turn it to the inside of the sleeve to cover the seam (and also eliminate the need for a hem)—see illustration below.

A. Measure around the child’s waistline (over undergarments), keeping one finger between the tape and her body for ease. Write down this measurement. Now add 1 1/2” to this measurement to allow for the back overlap and 1/2” to turn under. For example, let’s say the child’s waist measures 20” (with a finger between the tape and her body). You’ll add 1/2” for the back overlap (the left laps over the right 1/2”), plus 1” to give you 1/2” on each end of the waistband to turn under.

B. Using the waistband width guide, cut out the waistband (it would be 21 1/2” in this example). Also cut out a waistband lining out of the lining material and set it aside. (Optional: You can also make the waistband out of entredeaux for an heirloom dress.

5. Attaching Bodice to Waistband
A. Pin bodice to waistband, beginning at the back opening and turning under 1/2” at each end of the waistband. Pin all the way around to the side seams, then match center front of waistband to center front of bodice and pin. Pull up gathering stitches to fit and spread them evenly. Stitch bodice to waistband.


B. Pin skirt to waistband, matching placket edges to back edges of waistband exactly (to allow for overlap). Match side seams and center front. Pull up gathering stitches and spread evenly. Stitch skirt to waistband.

5. Finishing the Dress

A.  Press under the top and bottom of the waistband lining 1/2”, then press under 1/2” at each end. Pin waistband lining over skirt and bodice seam allowances inside the dress and whipstitch or slipstitch in place. (This completely encloses the raw seams and prevents unraveling.) [Note: If you choose to use entredeaux, you do not need to line the waistband. Instead, bias bind the raw seams to finish them off.

B.  Mark buttonholes horizontally on the overlapping back flap of the bodice.  You can space the buttons up to 1” apart, but larger gaps between buttons will result in puckering of the overlap between buttons. Eight to twelve 3/8” buttons will fill the space, depending upon how far apart you space the buttonholes and depending upon the height of the child for whom the dress is made.  You can also put a button in the center of the waistband, although a skirt hook and eye will work nicely (and is period correct). If you are using a particularly delicate material (like voile), I recommend backing each buttonhole with interfacing (you can sandwich a thin “slice” of interfacing inside the fold of the back overlap, then stitch each buttonhole through the three layers). Clip buttonholes open, then pin the bodice closed and mark where the buttons should be sewn.  Sew buttons in place.  If desired, also sew a snap or hook and eye closure in the placket.

C. To hem the dress, try it on the child and mark the hem length. Turn up and hand stitch the hem in place.  Press.  If you’ve lined the dress, the skirt lining should be hemmed to almost the exact same length, save ¼” inch (to keep the lining hidden). Or, if you prefer, you can embellish the hemline of the lining with eyelet or embroidery and leave it peeking out. [Note: Obviously there are lots of alternatives. You can make a skirt of eyelet, which won’t need a hem; you can make double skirt layers; you can hemstitch or place lace insertion. See the appendix for more embellishment ideas.]

7. Instructions for Making a Lined Bodice:

 A. Cut out the bodice and lining pieces.

B.  Follow the steps given above for sewing the shoulder and side seams together on the bodice and bodice lining with one exception: you do not have to make French seams, since your seam allowances will be completely enclosed. [Important note: If you are still using sheer fashion material, you will need to interline the bodice. This means you will pin backing pieces to the bodice front and back pieces before you sew the front and backs to the lining. This interlining keeps the sheer fashion material from being “see-through” and therefore hides the seam allowances.]

 C.  Pin the bodice lining to the bodice, right sides together. Stitch.

(Bodice pinned to lining - Click for larger image)

D.  Clip curves and corners and grade seam allowance.

E. Turn bodice right side out and understitch up the inside of the back edge, around the neckline and down the opposite back edge. (You are stitching through the seam allowance. This prevents the lining from “rolling” to the outside of the dress.) Press.

F. Proceed through the rest of the steps given above to complete the dress (if you are not using sheer material, you do not have to make French seams on the skirt, although I highly recommend this method, since it makes such a nice finish and keeps the seam allowances from unraveling).

8. Making the Waistline Sash

A. To make the sash, measure around the child’s waist while she is wearing the dress. The width guide on the pattern sheet is only a suggestion. You may make the sash as wide or as narrow as you please. 1914 styles were all over the map when it came to sashes. A “medium” sized sash that has enough fabric to bunch up nicely will be 10” wide. You will cut the sash the width you desire and 1” longer than the child’s waistline measurement you just took over the dress.  You will be cutting the sash across the material from selvedge to selvedge rather than up and down with the grain. (If you prefer a sash that ties in the back, you can cut a long one down the grain.)

B. Fold sash in half, right sides together, and stitch down the long seam.  Then stitch one end closed with the long seam in the middle, rather than at the top or bottom edge.  (This makes for a nicer-looking sash, since the long seam will be hidden beneath.)

C. Turn sash right side out, then turn under the open end and slipstitch closed, leaving no stitches on the outside of the sash. Have the child try on the sash over the dress, scrunching it up into nice folds. The sash ends should just meet, but if they overlap a bit, that’s okay. Just mark how much of an overlap there is (or if there isn’t an overlap). Sew hooks and eyes to the underside of the sash so that they can fasten and remain hidden from view. If you’ve made a long sash for the child, you can tie it and leave the ends hanging down behind or in front. You can make many different sashes and change the look of the dress any time!

9. Making the Underdress:

You will use the same pattern pieces to make the underdress, only you’ll be leaving the sleeves off and changing the waistband.

A. Lay out the bodice back piece as usual, but cut the neckline down one inch away from the child’s regular size line (leaving the shoulder area the same). Lay out the bodice front piece on the fold as usual, but cut the neckline down two inches from the child’s regular size line (leaving the shoulder area the same)—see illustration below.

B. Use these pieces to cut out lining if you wish to line the underdress. If you do not wish to line it, you’ll need to cut self bias binding for the armholes and neckline.

 C. If you are making a lined bodice, stitch bodice front and back together at shoulders only. Repeat for the lining. If you are making an unlined bodice, stitch front and back together at shoulders and side seams.

 D.  Take the bodice lining and pin it to the bodice, right sides together. Stitch around the neckline and at the armholes, as shown below, then clip corners and curves.

E. Turn bodice right side out by “feeding” the bodice back pieces through the shoulders at each side and pulling them out the front of the bodice. Press. Set aside.

F. If you’re making an unlined bodice, bind the armholes and neckline with bias binding as explained in steps 1E & F above. Set aside.

G. Sew skirt pieces together and add placket, as explained in section 3.

H. You can make the waistband plain or of beading, cutting the waistband exactly as explained above and sewing it to the bodice and skirt pieces. If you use beading, you can run a pretty ribbon through the holes and have it tie in the back.

I. Finish the rest of the underdress just as you finished the dress. You can trim the hem with lace or embroidery if you like. The sky is the limit!

10. Tips for Embellishing the Dress:

There are so many possibilities for decorating this dress! Girls’ dresses (particularly for church or fancy events) were often lavishly embroidered around the neckline, down the bodice, above the hem of the skirt and on the sleeves. I’ve included some basic embroidery designs at the end of the instructions so you can try them out. I recommend practicing on a scrap of fabric first if you’re new to embroidery.

You can also add lace insertion to the dress in the bodice, sleeves and skirt. Inserting lace is much easier than it looks! Should you decide to do it, you need to add all of the lace before you sew the dress pieces together. Below are some basic instructions for lace insertion (taken from a vintage dressmaking book). Try it out on scrap fabric first, and you’ll soon get the hang of it.


You can invent your own patterns for lace insertion (circles, ovals, straight lines, scallops, bows, etc.), but I’ve included a couple of vintage pictures at the end of the instructions to give you some ideas. The main thing is to be creative and enjoy yourself!


 

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1914 Afternoon Dress Pattern copyright Mrs. Jennie Chancey, 2004-2007