Sep 13

Hardwick Hall

by in 2012 Tour, Derbyshire, museum

Driving into Derbyshire Was every bit as enchanting as when my husband and I visited on our tenth anniversary, and it was wonderful to find the lovely village of Bakewell just as I remembered it. We checked into our hotel, which is where Jane Austen most likely stayed when she visited Chatsworth in 1811 and revised Pride and Prejudice. Standing in the room identified as Jane’s, you can look out the window and picture “Lambton” exactly as Elizabeth Bennett saw it in the novel, including the village green and the long road leading directly up to the inn.

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The view of Bakewell from our room. If you go back in this blog’s archives to 2006, you’ll see nearly the same view from our room then!

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Flowers in the village green.

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The view over the River Wye, which is filled with geese and ducks.

We had a free morning yesterday, and I think most of us spent it poking around in antiques shops and English bakeries! It was wonderful. I found beautiful hard-bound historical fiction books at giveaway prices (good thing I emptied a suitcase the first night giving away Kanga fabric and tote bags!). I also walked down the main street to see if the bookshop I remembered from six years ago was still there and found it was closed through the 14th for a family holiday. Oh, well….

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Old Hardwick Hall, which Bess built before starting on the larger and grander Hardwick Hall. The old one fell into decay and has had a starring role in many “Jane Eyre” film adaptations as Mr. Rochester’s burnt out “Thornfield Hall.”

At 11:30 we headed to Hardwick Hall for lunch and our tour. I hadn’t visited Hardwick in 2006, opting for Chatsworth instead, but Suzi put a bug in my ear last year by asking me what I knew about Bess of Hardwick. What I knew wouldn’t have filled a matchbook, so I bought a copy of Bess of Hardwick: Empire Builder by Mary Lovell and devoured it…twice. Bess was an amazing woman who outlived four husbands and made amazing use of her wealth and position. Some judged her hard and shrewd, but she really managed to take a lot of lemons and make lemonade out of them. She also became the founder of the House of Devonshire, which produced many famous (infamous?) people in British history.

Bess and her fourth husband started off on the right foot with a marriage grounded in love and mutual respect. He called her his “sweet None,” and she wrote adoring letters to him. And then they undertook the keeping of Mary, Queen of Scots, who was under house arrest to prevent her taking the throne from Elizabeth I. At first, the couple felt honored and were ecstatic about keeping Mary. However, Mary had a terrible reputation for charming the socks off any man who came within her circle, and she began to worm her way in between Bess and the Earl of Shrewsbury. Her upkeep was also incredibly expensive, and the crown didn’t reimburse as promised. This ate away at the Shrewsbury fortune and soured the marriage. Bess did her utmost to speak only kind words of her husband, but he became increasingly erratic, moody, and even borderline insane by the end. It was apparent that even Queen Elizabeth realized how incapacitated he had become when they met (he was one of her privy counselors).

Anyway, it’s a fascinating story, and Lovell’s bio of this lady is well worth reading. When Bess built Hardwick, she had her initials (“ES” for “Elizabeth Shrewsbury”) placed upon all the rooftop pavilions, as you see in the photo below:

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Bess specified in her will that her house and belongings had to be preserved in perpetuity, and almost everything in the house can be found on the 1601 inventory list. New things have been added as well, but hardly anything has been lost, and the attic contains what the curator describes as “an Aladdin’s Cave of treasure.” Many of the embroidered tapestries in the house were worked by both Bess and Mary during the latter’s imprisonment. It’s really amazing to stand next to these exquisite works of art and realize the sacrifices they represented to Bess, who lost her own freedom for 15 years while watching out for Mary.

Okay, I promise I’ll quit now! Here are the rest of the photos from our visit:

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Blustery day! We were all glad to get inside.

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As you can see, the house is immense, and the Long Gallery is, I believe, the longest in England. The hunting friezes at the top of the wall in the Great Chamber are amazing, and the woven “Gideon tapestries” that line the walls of the Long Gallery leave you with an aching neck from gawking. It’s truly the most splendid Tudor house I’ve seen.

As a surprise on our way back to Bakewell, our driver took us to Chatsworth for a photo op!

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The great house has been completely cleaned and all the windows regilded since our 2006 visit. It just gleams in the afternoon sunshine!

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Two of our ladies wore their Regency finery and looked right at home!

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Remind you of Lizzie Bennet? “Six inches deep in mud; I am absolutely sure of it!”

All around, it was a wonderful day in Mr Darcy’s Derbyshire. Today we visited the Symington Collection in Leicestershire, and I’ve been given permission to share photos of the marvels we enjoyed, so watch for my next post!

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3 Responses to “Hardwick Hall”

  1. From Katrina - Edelweiss Patterns:

    Oh, how marvelous. It is lovely to see at least two of the ladies from the 2009 tour back in England again, and it must have been just amazing to see “Pemberly”! And the “Inn at Lambton” – my goodness! Such history and fiction all at one place. : )

    Posted on September 13, 2012 at 11:54 pm #
  2. From Mary S Lovell:

    I enjoyed this lively blog and the photographs, and I would like to thank you for the nice things you said about my book.

    Posted on September 25, 2012 at 3:49 pm #
    • From Jennie Chancey:

      Wow, Mary! What a treat to have you stop by! I truly loved your book and have recommended it widely. What a fascinating woman Bess was! Your book truly illuminates her time period and helps the reader understand why she functioned the way she did (and many of the obstacles she faced). Brava!

      P.S. – I also loved your biography of Beryl Markham, and I have a lifelong love of aviation myself. My late father (Jeffrey L. Ethell) was an aviation historian and a pilot and flew nearly every type of aircraft in existence by the time he was 49. He wrote 59 books and over 2,000 magazine articles. Best of all, he taught me to fly in a WWII-era PT23–open cockpit with a map strapped to my knee. Pure joy!

      Posted on September 26, 2012 at 11:07 am #

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