One of my customers purchased this gown at auction a few years ago and sent me detailed photographs so I could study the drawstring closure and short sleeve/undersleeve combination. I didn’t end up making the drawstring bodice in my Elegant Lady’s Closet as gathered as this one, but I absolutely love this look. You’ll note that the bodice front is gathered separately from the skirt, giving the skirt a straight front–but the bodice back is gathered to match the skirt gathers behind. The top of the bodice front is similar to an apron-front (drop-front) gown, only the sides are sewn into the shoulder area rather than being connected with buttons or pins. The “drawstring” runs through the upper edge of the front neckline to pull up those gathers.

The gown closure looks quite “primitive” to our modern eyes with two drawstrings only–one at the neck and the other at the waistline. With a chemise and stays beneath, the lady didn’t have to worry about anything showing, of course. I adore the puffed sleeves. The undersleeves were basted into them and could be easily removed to make the gown change from day dress to evening/supper party dress. Note all the glorious details of tucks, drawn threadwork, and French knots. Stunning! This is simply an amazing piece of handiwork. Many thanks to my customer for sharing her beautiful gown!

This breathtaking gown is in the collection of the wonderful Valentine Museum in Richmond, Virginia, which boasts one of the largest historical costume collections in the South. I photographed this during a visit in 1998 to file away. When I created the drawstring dress option in my Elegant Lady’s Closet, this was one of the gowns I had in mind, particularly when it came to the gently rounded neckline and very short sleeves.

In this photo, you can see that the neckline edge of the ruffled collar is bound in the silk velvet and trimmed with gold cord to match the portrait.

This confection of a dress was sold by Vintage Textile. I’d never seen a dress with a large floral print like this from this time period, but I really like it. From a distance, the effect is one of a soft pink blush. It is only on up-close examination that you see the flowers. Breathtaking! Can’t you just picture afternoon tea on the lawn beneath the shady oak? Love it!

Here is an adorable trio of patterns by Advance. All are from the early-to-mid 1950s. I think my favorite is the one on the far left with its matching jacket. The gored skirt is flattering and feminine. The jumper/blouse combo in the center reminds me of Leslie Caron in “Daddy Longlegs” or Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday.” Very tailored and beautiful. The dress on the far right is a casual day dress perfect for a picnic in the back yard.

Classy and tailored eight-gore skirts exactly like two I have in my collection (handed down by my fashion plate grandmother). These have the fullness without all the gathers around the waist, making for a very flattering fit.

All of these delightful images were shared by Magic Dog Enterprises. The donor has also been kind enough to provide the text from the pattern backs where she could! Top left: “Jr. Misses’ and Misses’ One-piece dress with two skirts: Dress has wide shaped collar with notched detail, set-in sleeves, midriff sections and top-stitching detail. Midriff has pointed end and button trim. V. 1 dress has slim skirt with soft pleats at front waistline and back kick pleat. V. 2 full skirt has soft inverted pleats. Purchased belt may be worn and buttons on midriff omitted.” Top right: “Junior Misses and Misses’ Two-piece Suit. Town-going suit with easy graceful lines. Skirt has soft, inverted pleats at either side of center, front and back. View 1 features long sleeves and fringed scarf of jacket fabric at neck edge. View 2 has 3/4 sleeves and small collar. Buttoned trimmed tabs detail lower edges of side front. Buttons trim sleeve edges.”

Center, left to right: 1. “Misses’ Dress and Short Jacket says the pattern envelope. Copyright 1956. Materials suggested Cotton Brocade, Polished cotton, Linen, Crepe, Shantung, Printed Silk or Cotton, Faille. Jacket-Linen, Pique, Faille.” 2. “Jr. Miss & Misses’ Oriental Style Sheath: Oriental allure in this smooth sheath with a diagonally buttoned bodice, side slits. (A) trimmed with bias tap. Belted. (B) Mandarin neckline, unbelted. (C) Lace dress with contrasting lining and hip sash that loops.” 3. (No text available.) 4. “Jr. Misses’ and Misses’ Jacket, Dress and Jumper. Simple to make ensemble. Square neckline in front and back highlights this pert dress or jumper. Slim skirt has pleat at center back seam. Jacket has wristlength kimono sleeves, rounded collar and belt at lower edge of each side. Burrons are sewn at each end of belt. Top-stitiching trim is featured.”

Bottom left: “Girls’ Dress: Full-skirted dress with front-buttoned fitted bodice, contrast cuffed set-in sleeves. (A)Top-stitched triple collared version with three-quarter sleeves: self-belt. (B) single-collar with coordinating applique; short sleeves’ purchased belt.” Bottom right: “Copyright 1959. Child’s dress with attached crinoline. Suggested Fabrics: Chambray, cotton broadcloth, gingham, percale, cotton satin, linen, lin-like cotton, pima cotton, pique, similar synthetics; View A- wool Flannel: Petticoat-Nylon crinoline, nylon marquisette, organdy.”

This pattern illustrates how a very simple design can make the transition from day to evening. The long skirt and dramatic back are truly striking.

Suddenly we’re slim again! This is a 1957 McCall’s pattern which shows a return to the slim look of twenty years before, albeit with shorter skirts and bared arms this time around.